Udaipur

And now I am in Udaipur which is said to be one of the most romantic cities in India...and yes it is lovely and busy and it feels as if there is so much to do and so little time, but I guess this is only the essence of my nature rather then the places I have been. The first morning I arrived in Udaipur I ran into the friends from Varanasi that I helped do the boat party with....so the synchronousity of my trip seems to continue. I have spent the past few days running around with them. They bought a van so we were able to get out of the city yesterday and go for a drive to the Jan temples, which were constructed around 600 B.C. They were extraordinary and the day itself was sublime. We stopped and they cooked under a tree that I absolutely fell in love with....and of course had to climb. So they are leaving in a few days to go back to all of the places I have just come from. My curiosity tempts me to cancel my plans and follow these incandescent Israelis....so we will see which way the wind blows. I have enrolled in a yoga course in Mumbai, so that might be an option...or my original plan to stick around Rajasthan until my plane leaves on the 22 of February for Thailand. So all of these options have left my mind and heart in a labyrinth of emotion. I seem to have been following a steady breeze....and now the airs are changing all around me....and since I am in India I think it is time to consult a mystic....one that a very dear friend recommends. So after this we will see where the tide turns. Besides this Udaipur has been fun. There are some lessons we are meant to learn alone....and others that we must have the assistance of others. And although my plans were to find my alone time in Rajasthan, this again is not the case. I guess loneliness is not an adjective I will have trouble with on this trip, and while I am in Udaipur I will be taking Indian cooking classes, so hopefully I can come home with some skills....but we'll see how that goes. And from sanguine to cantankerous my mind has shifted, but as always with the winds of my heart there is nothing a good nights sleep will not alleviate.

The Holy City Of Omkareswar

I haven't been this far off of the beaten track since I arrived in India. It took 3 hours on a local bus to get to Omkareswar and I haven't found a map that has it. My friend Justin told me about it. Justin I met in the monastery and he is one of the dearest friends of my life. He reminds me of one of the Vista street kids...That was the street I grew up on...And not any one in particular. He just is someone I always want to know and I think he might be the truest Buddhist I've ever met, a zealot in the best sense of the word. Anyway I never would have found this place had he not directed me and it was just me luck I ended up their on the birthday of this holy river. The place was just brimming with enthusiasm and went from being a tiny town to a proper Indian town...I mean it's not India if there is breathing room, right? So everyone comes to bath in the river on this most holy day and I did think about it, but undressing or even going in my clothes and having wet clothes clinging to my body in India didn't sound like a good idea, or at least a pleasant one. I have made my peace with the constant stare...For one thing I am different, I am in their country, and the guys get it as well. We are foreign, that's interesting. And the yelling and cat calls...Well I grew up in Oakland....Which is mostly ghetto and cat calls are something I have spent my whole life ignoring, so I don't really even hear them anymore....Where was I going with this, oh yeah, but as far as bathing in front of Indian men....Not gonna happen....No matter how holy this river might be.

The evening was magical. The entire river and city was light with candles. Like all together we were a birthday cake. And on the hill there was the symbol of ON ablaze. Fireworks going off and drumming and dancing was going until my head hit the pillow...And even when I woke. People is India celebrate their beliefs like no other. A spectacular party for this ancient river. Well that was that and this is this. I am in Indore waiting for a night bus to Udaipur. I hope to spend a bit of time there...no more rushing around. There are cooking classes and flute lessons and a great yoga ashram. And I'm not sure how long I will stay. The travel bug bits and I follow...And the bug has not turned me wrong yet. So anyway, I love you all and will write less as I will be doing more. My time in India feels as though it is getting short and that is sad...So I am off to see the world so to speak.

The iridescence essence of India

I'm sitting in an "internet cafe" which is actually the only computer in town. In front of me is a poster that reads "Everything has its beauty but not everyone sees it." These words are written on a poster of some western city in a gold frame. These words burn into me in everything I see in India. I have been in love in so many ways....I fall in love with pizza on a regular basis and if you play the Talking Heads "speaking in Tongues" album I fall apart with love. The ways in which I have loved the many things, people, and pleasures of this life are on a very high level of passion...I burst on a regular basis. But none of these can come close to the many ways in which I have fallen head over heels in love with the iridescence essence of this holy mother India. In every breathe her charm overwhelms me and in every warm and tender smile I feel her arms embrace me. It is so hard for me to believe the stark contrast in retrospect to whence I first arrived. I had so many warnings and my heart was filled with so much fear. "A woman alone in India, the men are terrible"...."They will cheat you, be very careful." And so all of this was true. I was cheated and the men were terrible. And leaving for Nepal I promised to never return. I think life gives you what you expect it to. And I didn't give India a chance to give me anything good. I'm glad I did return....And I returned to Varanasi...A city I could live ad die in. For the first time I saw the holiness of this magnificent place. And a seed was planted in the depth of my spirit....That seed has just now begun to grow....And now I see India for everything that she is. And all of my six senses are in awe of this holy, holy place. I know India is not for everyone and I have met people who will never come back, but I think India loves me...As I love India. I have never met people more warm....I have so many stories of people going so far out of their way to help me...Because I am their guest, and they love their holy India. My timing has been amazing....All of those prayers back home have guided my course impeccably.

I was in Pune and went to the OSHA meditation center. When I got there they said their were no more tickets...They were sold out for the tour. So I turned to leave. As I was half way down the street. I saw a familiar face. We meet as old friends might...a kind of "oh, there you are"....and he says "Where are you going! Today is the big celebration! Come on, Come on!" I reply, "But I can not get in, they are sold out." In return he says, "But today all of the celebration is outside of the center. One of our elders has passed away and we are having a big party and burning the body down at the ghats." Just then I hear instruments from behind the walls of the center....As they approach the walls I can feel the energy of the crowd....Soon a herd of beautiful people of every color all dressed in red wine colored robes come dancing out of the gates with the body of their dear friend carried in the center. She is wrapped in white cloth with flowers strewn atop. I am swept into the crowd and we march through the city singing and dancing all the way to the ghat. There we watch as all of her brothers ceremonially light the body ablaze....This is similar to what they do in Varanasi....Same same but different. This was a beautiful occasion and one that happens very rarely....Maybe once every year or so....I felt so lucky to see yet another way the spirit is celebrated and the mysteries of this life are rejoiced upon rather then ignored....I joined my new-old friend for a meal and then hoped on a train that afternoon and was on to Jalgaon to visit the Ajanta caves....But I'll save that story for later. Today I am in Omkareswar. This place you will not find on a map. It is a holy place and today is it's birthday the holiest day of the year....and I just happened to come here yesterday. People are coming from all over the country for the celebration today. They will take a bath in the river which is meant to bless their life and purify their Karma...And again I just happened to be here on this holy day. I have been blessed on this trip with my timing. Thank you for all of your prayers back home. They are guiding my journey in such an aspicious way. I love you 5 times

Goan..Goan...gone

And just like that. I wake up one morning and it's time to go. NOthing is different I still love Goa. But the traveling bug came in the night and bit me. I woke up and realized I've been in Goa since a few days after Christmas. The days have been like a beautiful dream that all drift together. Goa is a bit like an Oasis for travels. A paradise of lost hippies and tranced out Isrealis where you can eat whatever your little heart desires for next to nothing. But then you find yourself complaining because the next town over has a plate of fish for 70 rupees instead of 150. I settled in to Goa. I am now properly tan and satified with everything I have learned and experienced here. Everything is a lesson. Everything in life is begging to teach you something and traveling the lessons about myself seem so much more apparent. True that since the moment I arrived I have spent very little time alone. But also true I am alone. I am away from everything and everyone that so intensely effects who I am. So I am able to see myself in a different way. I was speaking with this south african the other night who pointed this out to me. All of us travelers here alone together and talking to ourselves to each other. Seeing who we are in the faces of others and freeing ourselves through this magical gift we have in this journey we share. I feel so privilaged to be taking this journey and in comparison to the poverty I see in India I am ashamed. I have met travelers who have stayed and started charities. That is so incredibly beautiful. And so many of the people I've met are so incredibly beautiful, especially Lucianna. At this point in the journey I will be leaving Lu, who I have been with since the monastary. She is wanting to stay in Goa for a couple of weeks and then go south, and I hear the northern region of Rajasthan calling, so I must go north. So this wonderful traveling companion and soulmate I must leave. She is someone I hope to know the rest of my life. Our spirits are so kindred, and the theiving elves have continued to terrorize her....Her purse was stolen from the beach the other night with her motorbike key, sunglasses, and 600 or 700 rupees. And last night she was on the back of another girls motorbike and the girl crashed. My heart goes out to Lu. I really hope this string of bad luck will end. The lessons we are learning are so different. The thing that I've loved about our friendship is that she shows no judgement about anything I have done or said and I feel the same way about her. We just love each other unconditionally and that has been such a gift. But now it is time for me to be on my own, fully and completely. Goa is full of activity and beautiful people from all around the world, but I'm ready to leave the oasis and head back to India. I'm leaving for Pune on Friday night where there is a far out place called the Osho Meditation Center. Curiousity is drawing me there and I'll tell more once I have seen it, but don't worry Mom I'm not staying, just looking. Well it is Wednesday market today, my last and I'm a little sad to see it go. My roomates and I will cook a big feast tomorrow with the owners of our guesthouse as a good-bye. They are such warm people. I will always stay with them when I come to Goa, just a beautiful family. And there is so much to say about Goa, my heart is bursting. The night market, the Dutch Baba who lives in the Trees, The Slogans "Bai, Why like dis?", The "come look my shop" girls, The children chasing me as I've stolen their magic flute, so many stories I hope you can read between the lines. And I will tell you them all when I return. I hope you will all come to India someday. It is a truly magical place. Goodbye Goa

Toilet oh Toilet I hate you, you stink

Anyone who has been to India has some sort of toilet adventure story. Mine has been endless. When I first came to India shitting in a hole just wasn't going to happen....so I just didn't......for way to long. Then there was life in the monastary which as I'm sure you can imagine sitting on your bum all day backs things up a bit. Now without going into any finer detail lets just say not much has been solid since entering India. But it's not a big deal because I feel great. So the interesting parts of the bathroom experience...toilet paper is rarely provided so you learn to carry a role with you....and pissing on a train requires a new kind of balance I didn't think I had. And the toilets don't usually flush so, like in my house, youhave to pour a bucket of water in after you take care of business. And there is no such thing as a clean bathroom in India, so I've just learned to get over it. India helps you let go of any germaphobic tendencies you once might have had. And I have had water out of the tap and food on the street.....and I haven't taken any shots or medicine and I'm great....and I'm also knocking on wood right now. Well there is so much more to say, but the beach is calling me. So until next time, I love you all.

Anjuna to Arambol and back again

So I ventured out of the lovely little nook I have found in Anjuna. I have actually settled in to a bit of a routine. And if anyone knows Anjuna they would underatand how bizarre my little life might seem. Anjuna is know as a meeca for Trance music and people come to Anjuna from around the world to party. The funny thing is I haven't been out since New Years. I've been doing yoga and reading and enjoying the beach and the fresh fish that is 150 rupees a plate ($3). Oh and my roomates are just wonderful. We had the best time the other night at the night market. I've already given you the low on Lu.So now for a bit on the lovely Englishman John who has driven his car from England to here. It's been very refreshing to be around someone I feel completely myself with. He is writing a book about this trip, so he's always taking notes about all of the crazy and ridiculous scenerios that we see. Like today there was this scene with a ear cleaner, which is a job in India. And John goes down to talk to the ear cleaner and the ear cleaners victim or client. He was offered an apprenticeship as an ear cleaner. Oh how I would take such pleasure in coming back to Goa and seeing John sticking needles and cotton into the ears of tourists.....The John and Lu combination has been just right. Well so I spent the last few days with some friends up in Arambol. Friends I met in Varanasi. Arambol is a bit up the coast, perhaps 20 minutes by motorbike, and has been considered the quieter get away place in North Goa....but the thing about Arambol is that everyone seems to have flocked to it, so it's not so quiet. There seems to be a younger crowd there and lets see how can I say this. I had a great time in Arambol. Really loads of fun and really good, kind, happy people. But I guess I am just in such a different place then the scene that was in Arambol. At one time I would have felt like I had found heaven....but you know the world is so subjective and what satisfies you today can seem so superfluous the next. I am in such a different place. I guess I have found some satisfaction in my spirit and even though I am by no means a zealot I have settled in to a sweet little life that is fullfilling my simple needs. Or maybe I'm just getting old. And so I am back in Anjuna. Enjoying a new book and I will be starting a fruit juice cleanse in two days which will last for five days. And if anyone has advice on cleanses please drop me a line. These are the kind of things I enjoy now. Spliffs and Chillums all day just doesn't really do it for me anymore. So many of the people I'm meeting are a bit younger then me and just on a different trip. But this trip is not over and there are so many other trips and turns it could take....and I'm not soooo old. And I am in Goa so we'll see what stories arise next. As they say in India "Sub Kuch Milega" or "Anything could Happen" so we will see.

Lucianna and the theiving elves

So I really didn't think it was possible for anyone to lose there things as much as I do. It's quite ridiculous and anyone who knows me at all will tell you the same. But then I met Lu. Lu is so much fun and has become a sister. We met in the monastary and I've changed my whole trip because I knew traveling with Lu would be a great adventure. And it definetly is that. So the story goes like this. And I think I'l start and end the story like this. Over the course of about 10 days Lu lost her passport, credit cards, shoes, keys, purse, 1000 rupees, 2000 rupees (seperately), Cd with all of the pictures from our trip, notebook with all addresses, sunglasses, travelers checks, and the story goes like this. Either on the 33 hour train ride from Varanasi to Mumbai or on the 12 hour ride from Mumbai to Goa Lu got hot, so she took her money belt off and put it in her purse. By the time we got to Anjuna it was gone. Passport, travelers checks $200, and a credit card. Next on New Years eve Lu loses her purse with 2000 rupees, sunglasses, and another credit card inside. This night she also loses her shoes and then meets a poor family and decides to raise money for them. She spends the next couple hours going around collecting money for this family and gets 1000 rupees....and loses it. Oh and she finds her purse, but loses it again. Then a day or so later she looks and can't find any of our CD's with the pictures from the trip (which I am counting on since I have lost my camera). Then a day or two later she loses her notebook with all of her addresses and other extremely vital information. Then, as if this is even possible, she loses the keys to our new house. And so, on seperate occasions Lucianna lost everything over the course of a few days...everything. Passport, keys, credit cards, purse, money, Cds, notebook,sunglasses and travelers checks. And I don't quite know what to say. This is the first New Year's Eve I have lost nothing. I think my elves have found someone else to pick on. Or Lu has her own elves. Or perhaps my elves and her elves are double teaming her. We were laughing today about how funny it would be if the elves walked in the house laughing and carrying all of the things she has lost. This was their best heist yet.

I'm a Goan

So I've settled in quite nicely into Goa. I have a house that I am sharing with a wonderful brazilian girl named Lucianna and a charming yoga teacher named John from England. Today I did a bit of grocery shopping and this evening we will be going off to the night market to get some decorations for the house. I'm so happy. It's a very simple life....wow I just had dejavu....again. I've been having it so much on this trip It's really unbelieveable. Like everyday almost. And sometimes....like in Jammu and Delhi I had these instinces where I came to a place I had never been before and remembered it from a dream.....very surreal this life. Last night we were laying on the beach and I don't know what it was and this has never happened to me before but I saw something with flashing lights that were moving in a circular motion. Now I know what you are all thinking, I mean I am in Goa, but no I was completely sober. And anyway where is this car going. Sometimes the train of thought is like a car with no driver.
So New years was unreal. I had the best time. Really. Since I was with a brazilian, Lucianna, I jumped in the ocean at midnight and destroyed my dress. I then waited for 7 waves to crash against me....and so I was granted 7 wishes. It was so fun. There were fireworks and a huge fire on the beach and brilliant music. Goa is a very magical place. If not for those I love back home I would become a Goan. My life is wonderful and traveling is the most eye opening beautiful thing. It feels really good to be settled in a place for a little while though. The transient lifestyle was starting to get to me. Now I have a fridge. I'm going to cook a lovely dinner tonight for my roomates and sleep in a house I can call my own. I hope you all had a wonderful New Years and Christmas and everything else. My next blog will have photos.